Cosmedix is an American Cosmeceutical brand that used in selected spas globally. They have a wide range of products and a focus on problem solving, be it wrinkles or hyperpigmentation. They use ingredients found in nature and manipulate them for increased efficacy. Cosmedix’s unique selling points is the fact that the formulas are ‘chirally correct’ – feature of pharmaceuticals that is increasingly used in cosmetic science. Chirality is the name given to molecules that are asymmetric in form. If you placed your two hands together it consists of either fingers and two thumbs. If you place your hands one on top of the other, it still consists of eight fingers and two thumbs but you cannot super impose your right and left hand. If you place one hand on top of each other, the thumb or one hand is in the position of the little finger of another. Your middles fingers are super imposable but not the whole hand. Keeping wtih the hand analogy, the properties of each hand in most molecules are slightly different. In pharmaceuticals it is important to have the correct hand in the drug because of how the interact with the organs in the body. In terms of skincare Cosmedix and other ‘chirally correct’ brands assert that chirally correct skincare increases the efficacy of formulas and reduces adverse reactions. There are many formulation chemists who don’t concur that chirality is a requirement in skincare for a variety of reasons including
- because the skin does not recognise the isomers (hands) of the molecules in the way that organs do
- because penetration of a molecule through the skin is more dependant on the size of the molecule then any other parameter and because
- there are no government requirements for chirality.
There are always two sides to any debate and for an ingredients geek like me, it is fascinating – I’ll leave you to draw your own conclusions and get on with the review! Cosmedix have two cleansers in their range – neither of them are appropriate to remove make up in my opinion. You will need to use a cleansing oil/balm or micellair first.
Benefit Clean is a medium viscosity clear gel with a very delicate citrus aroma from the Grapefuit oil and sandalwood. I have to say I was very surprised to see essential oils in this cleanser. Grapefuit especially make skin sensitive / photosensitive. This is a wash off cleanser but it does not lather profusely. It leaves the skin very lightly scented but not taut or dry.
Purity Clean is an exfoliating cleanser. The Cosmedix range does not use any gylcolic acid. The AHA in this cleanser is lactic acid it is therefore essential to use a sunscreen after using this product. It also contains Tea Tree Oil, Lavender Oil and Peppermint Oil (which is the oil that fragrances this cleanser) so it has anti inflammatory and anti microbial activity. I use Purity Clean when I am having a breakout be it hormonal or sugar related. It is a gel cleanser that is very thin and it is green! It uses different surfactants from Benefit Clean but again this is not a super foaming formula. I have found that it does not tingle or irritate the skin but if you have sensitive skin you will definitely need to patch test first.
The pump dispenser is both convenient and hygienic. You can also see how much of the product you have used which I always like. It is very utilitarian packaging and it has a cosmeceutical feel with the phenelene (three benzene rings) molecule which is the Cosmedix logo. This is not the easiest range to get hold of – EF Medispa carry out Cosmedix Skin Peel treatments and stock the product, alternatively Medico Beauty also distribute the products. One hundred millilitres of cleanser retails for approximately twenty seven pounds.