I am very late to the Escentric Molecules party. Super late. It is on purpose because the hoo hah about this brand extended outside the fragrance community to us normal fragrance fans. Escentric Molecule takes a different approach to perfumery. Since 2006, they have launched 2 fragrances a year. The ‘Molecule’ of which I have two contains the a single molecule, as opposed to a blend of notes which contain several molecules that you find with other fragrances. The ‘Escentric’ of which I don’t own any contains the molecule in high proportion and other notes that amplify that note.
Perfumery is known for it’s decadacence so stripping a product right back to one molecule, really disrupted the industry. It was not the inclusion of a synthetic molecule that changed things – it was stripping the juice in the bottle back to just one molecule. In an extraction of a note you will find more than one molecule. For example in neroli, you will find the aroma-moleculess nerol and nerolidol neither of which on it’s own smells like neroli (one is woody, the other is rose-like. Therefore the inclusion of just one aroma chemical in a ‘fragrance’ was huge. In fragrances these synthetic molecules are used to amplyify notes within the fragance blends. There is to my mind something quite delicious about having the opportuity to experience one molecule one its own.
I purchse molecules in the smallest size. 30ml… at first it was because i was not sure if I was going to like it… but now it is becuase I know I am going to be collecting them. Molecule 01 has a slightly abstract molecular – galaxy esque image. Molecule 02, just has 02 on it – slightly disappointing but I’m ot fussed.
The first fragrance that I bought. The most talked about and arguably the most used in the industry. Molecule ! is Iso Super E. This is a fragrance that is known to have an anosmiatic effect. Some people can smell it on their skin – others can’t. Part of the hooo ha around this fragrance was that people bought a fragrance that they could not smell on the skin but other people could. Fortuneately, I can smell it on my skin. It is lovely. On me, it has a sweet woody aroma with a hint of musk. Definitely more ceder wood than sandalwood . It is very clean but more interesting then ‘clean cotton’ scent. This is office appropriate, casual appropriate and as it sits close to the skin, it is not a good option if you are looking to slay your way though a crowd. Longevity on my skin is 6 – 7 hours without much sillage or projection.
I picked up Molecule 02 about 3 months after I had 01 in my possession. I was expecting it to be similarly subtle on the skin. Hell No. Molecule 02 is Ambroxan which is a molecule found in ambergris and amber. This is a beast compared to Molecule 01. It is louder, but not in an aggressive or abrasive way it is just bigger and bolder. It shares the same level of sweetness but it has something slightly addictive. In marketing terms I can see how everyone would label it as ‘masculine’ but I love it. It is warm, perfect for autumn, perfect for all occasions
I love this range. It makes my nerdy side happy. Fragrance can be so flouncy and pompous (yes, I said pompous). By stripping the fragrance right back to the molecule and taking away the celebrity marketing maching, the niche and conceptual elements and the pretty pretty bottles Escentric Molecules helps you really get to the essence of scent. Do you like it, how does it make you feel. There is no marketing machine giving imagery through advertising of how you are ‘supposed’ to feel, it is just down to you. It is my plan, in true fragrance addict style to purchase every molecule in the range. I am fascinated by how one molecule can do so much.