On Friday Fenty Beauty launched with 40 foundation shades. Imagine if all beauty brand launched with 40 or more shades of foundation? The reception to Fenty Beauty has been positie from all skintones. Despite the fact that it oxidises, people generally seem to think it is a good foundation. Props to Rhianna for showing the beauty industry what can be done when your intention is to be reprasentative. There is as much excitement about the shade range as there is about having a piece of Bad Girl RiRi in your hands and on your face. The joy of being able to go to counter and pick one or more shade to to fit your complexion needs is something special if you have spent years, searching mixing and blending to create your perfect shade.
The pro makeup artists amongst you are probably rolling your eyes. Graftobian and other pro brands also make a plethora of shades. True, but the majority of makeup wearers are consumers. The expectation is that you will get your shade from the department store or high street shop. Rhianna has done an amazing job. I wish her all the success and I plan to buy her foundation once the furor has died down. However, Fenty Beauty is not the only consumer makeup brand to have a truly representative shade range. Forty seems to be a bit of a magic number with foundations – these brands have forty or more foundations too.
The Cover FX Pressed Mineral, Compact Cream and Natural Finish liquid foundation ranges are availabel in 40 shades. The brand creates shades with pink neutral gold and some olive undertones. Cover FX are one of my favourite complexion brands. Why? Because they really focus on skin and do it well. If you are struggling to find your shade in your preferred formula they are a brand to check out.
Lancome were one of the first ‘designer brand’ ranges to extend their shade range. Then they made Lupita N’yongo a brand ambassador. Most recently their launched their Teint Idole range with 40 shades. If you can get past the floral scent of the foundation, the finish of the skin is really lovely.
I am not a MAC head. I have a problem with the fact that very many women of colour are told they are NW45 when many of them are not. However, I have to give credit where it is due. For a long time MAC was the only place but, credit where it is due for a long time, MAC was the only place where I could go with my mates and all of us get colour matched for a foundation. Studio Fix Powder has 53 shades and Studio Fix Fluid has 46. I’m not necessarioy a fan of the foundation textures, but MAC know how to create a complexion colour.
When Eunice Johnson creator of Fashion Fair approached Estee about making complexion products for women of colour she said no. Clearly the brand reflected on this and many years Double wear is in the UK market with 50 shades. Estee Lauder claim that Double Wear is the best selling foundation in the UK. If the product was sold with a pump I would be more likely to try it!
Makeup Forever is another one of my favourite brands. The Ultra HD Foundation is a product that I bought in the liquid and stick forms and whichever formula you prefer, it is available in 40 shades. Before they were launched in Debenhams, I used to buy it from Guru Makeup Emporium but with Debenhams up and down the country they are an accessible option for complexion shades.
You will have noticed that none of the brands with 40 or more foundation shades are ‘affordable’ or ‘cheap’ or ‘drugstore’ or under £20. If your skintone falls outside of the middle mainstream, you usually have to pay more for your foundation. The other thing of interest is that Lancome is is part of the L’Oreal family and MAC is part of the Estee Lauder family. How can it be that only one brand out the portfolios of these ginormous cosmetics power houses make 40 or more shades of foundation? Is it really the case that brands within the house of Lauder and L’Oreal don’t share formulas and expertise? Hmmm.
Fenty Beauty is not a completely independent brand. It is part of the Kendo group which was previously affiliated with Sephora. Fenty Beauty is a sister brand to Kat von D (30 shades in the UK) and Marc Jacobs (20 shades in the UK) beauty lines. Kendo group is part of LVMH which is the parent of Makeup Forever and Benefit Cosmetics. Defiinitely something to keep in mind next time a brand tells you that a your skintone is ‘difficult to make’ or doesn’t sell’.