In May, Dove brought out a new range to products. Derma Series is specifically formulated for skins suffering from sensitivity, very dry, eczema or psoriasis. I have been using the range for the past three months and here are my thoughts.
The Science Bit
Dove have spent over a decade developing their PPAR Activation Complex. Peroxisome Proliferation Activation Receptors (PPARs) are a type of protein that are found in cells. They help to regulate different functions in the cell eg cellular metabolism, and differentiation as well as when they are carried out. For people with extremely dry skin (like me) and those who have eczema and psoriasis our skin condition is as a result of the skin cells not behaving in the way that they do in people with ‘normal’ skin. Skin cells in these instances can be hyperproliferative (over active cell division) or inflamed . PPARs can help to regulate cell functions which means means inflammation and the speed of cell division is normalised. There is a whole body or research into PPARs which are used in dermatology to treat skin condition and in skincare for serums and moisturisers.
Dove say that after using Derma Series for fifteen days there will be a difference in the skin because their PPAR Activation Complex will help to regulate over / under active functions in skin cells. All of the range is hypo allergenic, fragrance free, and non irritating.
Derma Series: The Products
Ultra Caring Gentle Cleansing Bar
This white soap can be used all over the body but I have been using it as hand soap. Many soaps and handwashs leave my skin tight or dry or both. This soap doesn’t and I wash my hands many times a day. It is slightly softer then for example a L’Occitane soap – I dont know if it is triple milled but it does not get too soggy in the soap dish.
Ultra Caring Gentle Cream Face Cleanser.
This is my least favourite product from the range, but it is because the skin on my face is not extra dry. It is a cream cleanser, with pretty good slip so you can do a fair bit of facial massage. It is not that great at taking off make up and on my skin I found that whilst my face was cleansed, it had absolutely no impact on the brightness of my skin or the texture which is something that I am accustomed to from other cleansers that I use. The pump mechanism works well and it is nice to have a large surface area to depress.
Ultra Caring Body Cleanser
I was really surprised that this product came in a tube rather then a pump as the face cleanser and body moisturiser do. When the tube is full, it is fine, but as you get through the product, you end up contorting the tube into a wide range of pretzel -esque shapes to ensure that you get all the product out. Fortunately the tube has a lid that you twist which does not detach from the tube rather then having a flip top lid.
The texture of the body cleanser is like a slightly gloopy moisturiser. It does not have the gel texture of most body washes. It does not foam – it kind of emulsifies, a bit like when you add water to a cleansing balm. When you rinse and dry the skin, it is not dry or tight. I regularly waited thirty minutes before applying body moisturisers to see what happened and whilst my skin was not as taut as it would be with other shower washes, it did start to dry out.
Intense Repairing Body Cream
This is my favourite product from the range, this is a light lotion, which is housed in a pump dispenser. It absorbs into the skin quite easily and it leaves a velvety texture in the skin. It takes some getting used to because it is slightly tacky almost velvety on the skin. It is unusual but not unpleasant and you can put your clothes on straight away.
On the skin
I can honestly say that after the first day I saw a difference in my skin. It did not go from zero to hero in one night but there was a visible improvement and by day fifteen it was a marked improvement. I used it for a month on a daily basis but the improvement seemed to peak at day fifteen levels. The second and third month I used I did a ‘maintenance’ schedule where I used the products a couple of times a week. My skin is still dry but much better then it was before Derma Series. My shins have survived eight weeks of leg shaving far better this year then it did last year.
So why don’t I continue to use Derma Series everyday? There is no doubt this range is a game changer, but this is not my holy grail product. It is more effective and much more pleasant to use then the emulsifying ointment and aqueous cream that I was prescribed as a child. However, I really wanted it to take my skin out of the dry skin zone and it didn’t. We have been blessed with some lovely weather and my skin is always better in the summer. At the end of thirty days my skin was still dry, not as dry as it was but nonetheless … dry. Was I naive to think that it would? Probably, but if this range cant take my skin out of the dry skin zone in a very warm summer, it is unlikely to be able to do so in the depths of winter. In addition the body cleanser and body cream – my favourite products from the range contain mineral oil. I have had the pleasure of meeting one of Dove’s research scientists so I know Dove’s position on the skin benefits of mineral oil. In terms of providing a non irritating occlusive layer in a body cream, I get it, but in the body cream? I feel sure that the research team could utilise an a oil component in these products that is allergen free fragrance free and reasonably priced. Especially as this range is for people with the most fragile skin. I will continue Derma Series a couple of days a week for the summer, and revisit whether I should use it more regularly in the autumn winter.
If you have dry skin / eczema / psoriasis I would definitely recommend that you try this range. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain.